Country of Smilies! Sri Lanka

Wowness! I guess I was expecting Sri Lanka to be a lot like India because, well, that’s what people told me. I found it not at all the same! It was gorgeous, friendly, and a lot easier for a foreigner. But I can’t say which is better. Both India and Sri Lanka are Incredible for differ reasons. India never fails to surprise and excites with all the twists and turns; you will definitely learn more about your self in India. Sri Lanka was a country of smilies! Everyone will smile at you (instead of just take photos of you like in India). With beautiful beaches, large and exotic wildlife parks, climate friendly hill countries, temples, and ruins Sri Lanka has a lot to offer and is much easier to vacation (both by visas and foreigner acceptance).  I will say two weeks is just not enough time to see it all, especially because transportation is slow going.

I first traveled to the hill country with a few other travelers amongst stunningly green tea plantations, numerous jungle cascades, and the bustling city of Kandy. Not really knowing what to expect I certainly didn’t think Kandy would be a busy city filled with gorgeous colonial buildings, and surrounded by majestic green covered hills. In Kandy I climbed to a massive Buddha statue atop a hill, was amazed by the offerings and devotion of those in the sacred tooth temple (where a tooth of Buddha lies), and enjoyed Kandy cultural dances with a bit of fire walking thrown in for wow factor.

tea monster

Liking the weather in the hills and needing to do a little exercise I headed back up to the small town of Dalhousie and the start of Adam’s Peak trail. This sacred mountain draws thousands of pilgrims to the top to watch the sun rise. Starting at 1am I got more than enough exercise climbing the 5,200 or so steps to the top, but coming down the 5,200 or so steps was much harder. I had trouble walking the next day. Yes it was worth it though!

Next was a bit of quite time in little Ella to see waterfalls and of course watch the World Cup finals of cricket (yeah I actually understand the game now). Sri Lanka vs India! Too bad Sri Lanka didn’t win because I wanted to see the crazy parties.

In Ella I met some cool people that convinced me to check out a great beach called Marissa. So glad I did it was so wonderful! But first I had to get a little wildlife fix and see Yala National Wildlife Reserve. Crocodiles, snakes, monkeys, elephants, cool birds, monitor lizards, giant hornbill, spotted deer, wild boars, and what could have been a very fleeting glimpse of a leopard as it ran across the road at a distance. The jeep in front said it was anyways. Another great day!

So that is the short and sweet of my Sri Lanka trip. It is a great place for a holiday and still pretty cheap but it doesn’t look like it will stay that way for long. So I recommend to pack those bags and enjoy it now!

Buddha statue Kandy hill top

Monk

Kandy Lake

Kandy Cultural Dancing/Drumming

Crazy fun customes

Offerings at Sacred Tooth Temple

Temple of the Sacred Tooth

In the Sacred Tooth Temple

One of many waterfalls

tea monster!

Wild elephant near the road

Why is US money so boring compared to elsewhere?

Night hike to Adam’s Peak

Sunrise Adam’s Peak

Steep stairs

Impressed by the older pilgrims! 5,200 steps up

Adam’s Peak

My legs were wobbling during this picture

Not too sore for a jumpy photo though!

Adam’s Peak

view from a train ride

Though mangy the dogs even are smily

Cricket World Cup with local beer ($2.30)!

 

Incredible India! March 18 Update

I’m am so happy with my choice to travel. I’ve learned so much about myself and the world during this time in my life and I feel more fulfilled. There are countless opportunities at every turn and true learning that can only be achieved by personal experience. Here are some highlights of India that I have been fortunate to live.

Hand in Hand India

In Tamil Nadu I traveled with donors for Hand In Hand India around remote villages where Hand In Hand is doing amazing work to lift people out of poverty through empowerment, training, and micro finance. I was filled with awe of village women, warmed by bright smiles of children, and Indianized for a day with flowers put in my hair, a bindi mark on my forehand, and wearing my new bangles. A big thank you to McKay and Hand In Hand for allowing this memorable and unique experience.

Auroville

After remote villages McKay and I decided to do a very un-Indian trip to an experimental community called Auroville. Based around meditation, yoga, and alternative/spiritual lifestyles I wish I could have experienced more of the place, but it felt closed off to outsiders and unwelcoming.

Cardamom Club

The majority of my time the last 2 months has been volunteering at Cardamom Club in the jungle hills of Thekkady, Kerala. Amazing birds, hiking everyday to guide walks, setting up trails, avoiding Indian cobras, hearing and smelling tropical storms, helping with guests, and relaxing in peace and quite. The food was incredible too!

While at Cardamom Club I also got to go on great adventures. Bamboo rafting in Periyar Tiger Reserve where we spotted and watched wild elephants, camping in Jungle Camp and doing a private jeep tour with new friends that happen to be guides, spice walks, and Kalari marital arts performance. I really loved my time at Cardamom Club and hope to stay involved with the place to watch it grow in success.

The Hugging Mother Ashram

There wasn’t too much to do back in Kumarakom so I took a few days off to explore an ashram that was recommended to me. Unfortunately the Hugging Mother, Amma, was away touring but I still really enjoyed the ashram. The ashram asks all guests and residents to help to maintain the property through seva or chores. I choose to help in recycling and composting just to prove to myself that it can happen in Kerala despite seeing trash everywhere. Dirty and hard work but well worth it to contribute to something I believe in so strongly. I also did a bit of yoga and mediation and saw an astrologer to decipher my start chart. Very amusing and interesting!

Time to move on from volunteering

After returning from the ashram I spent a few more days helping with houseboat guests and pursuing a new opportunity in India that will keep me challenged for a while while still allowing me to move on and travel. It was actually hard to say goodbye to Kerala and the people that I got to know so well but I am also glad to be pushing on. I will keep having ties to this area and it is no longer a thought of if I return but when!

Om Beach

Ah the western life again! Beach, bikinis, pizza, beer, and communicating in full sentences! I needed a break after being so submerged in Indian life so I headed to Om Beach near GoKarna in Karnatika. It is a clean beach for western tourists and it is lovely! In fact it is time to get off the computer and enjoy the sea and sand!

Yes I will say it again I love my life!

I will add some more photos soon, but here are a few from flicker

Finally made it to Kerala

Tuesday, Jan 18 – Train 26 hours

26 hours Mumbai to Cochin

Ernakulam sunset

 

The title says it. It was long and boring, but with nicer scenery in Kerala. It could be worse. There is a 66 hour straight train ride in India (the longest single stretch in India).

Wednesday, Jan 19 – Ernakulam

Today I’m Married

Don’t worry not for real. It is just something I say when younger guys start chatting with me when I’m walking around. I took a short stroll around Ernakulam, got some yummy street food for about 25 cents for dinner, saw a pretty sunset over the water, and chatted with a nice enough “suitor” before escaping into my hotel. I’ll be back to visit Cochin (Kochi) sometime soon. For now it is off to volunteer doing…er…. not quiet clear on that, but that’s India for ya!

Thursday, Jan 20 – Kumarakom

Finally made it to Kumarakom

I’m starting to feel like an expert with India transport. Just grabbed a rickshaw, bargained a low price, got to the bus stand, was pointed onto the right bus, one transfer later, and whal-la I’m in Kumarakom. Just looking around the scenery I can tell I will like it here a lot more than other places I’ve been. It’s so green, with less trash, and there’s BIRDS!

At Tharavadu Heritage House I walked in asking for Mr. Kence who I am to volunteer with. With a friendly reply they said “yes everything is taken care of we will show you to your room, what would you like to eat? Mr Kence will meet you in an hour” Magic! Then Mr Kence arrived with a bird book for me in hand and I knew that everything would be grand.

Friday, Jan 21 – Kumarakom

Boat ride to Appeley

Kence needed to see about a property he is thinking about doing reservations for so we took a nice boat ride in the backwaters! I got to see tons of birds and take in the vibrant green of rice fields we passed. Great introduction to Kerala.

Saturday, Jan 22 –Kumarakom

Temple arch just across the hotel I stay

Canoeing the Small Channels and Birds!

After getting to know Kence better he offered me his fiberglass canoe anytime I wanted to see birds and explore the backwaters! So first thing I jumped in and took along the other volunteer for a great morning float. Friendly villagers, happy kids, stunning river scenes, birds galore, getting exercise…. yeah Julie is in heaven! There was lots of trash in the water still but instead of complaining about it I started doing something and picked up any plastic I could grab. In the afternoon I got my first look at the luxurious houseboats that Kence runs tours with and worked with customers that had questions about the tour.

In the evening I met two fantastic New York girls and we enjoy a local performance of Katakhali dance. More about facial expressions and elaborate costumes to tell a unique story than dance moves, it was out of this world! I also talked to them about my canoe ride and offered to take them out if it was okay with Kence.

Sunday, Jan 23 – Kerala Backwaters

Life of Luxury on the Water

Kence gave the okay and I had success on my first guest canoe ride. Before we set out though I talked Kence into giving them a discount on a houseboat tour if he let me and the other volunteer go along to get the experience in order to give better customer service. Everybody went for the deal, after the canoe ride it’s off for 24 hours of luxury!

The girls loved the intimate and friendly view into the village life on the smaller water canals. People bathing, washing clothes, kids shouting with joy and running along with us, cleaning of fish for amazing Kerala fish curry, fishermen heading out in their wooded canoes; couldn’t ask for a better morning. As part of the Eco Tours Kerala part I did tell them we had to collect at least 5 pieces of trash from the river before we return. They loved that idea as well and so did I! Maybe I can start something here….

Back in plenty of time to get to the houseboat we were all excited about the tour! The houseboats of today are a far cry from the traditional wooden boats (really a massive canoe) with small thatched roofs. Driven by tourism they are now huge elaborate floating hotels with all the modern comforts. I have to admit I did enjoy the opulence after doing the budget route for so long! The food was magnificent as well.

Monday, Jan 24– Kumarakom

Becoming Famous?!?

We all woke early so not to miss sunrise, a little too early because we waited for about an hour and half for the sun to wake up. Oops! But we all enjoyed seeing stars and moon over the water as well! After a brilliant sunrise complete with morning chorus of birds, we headed to Appely to drop off the New Yorkers then preceded to ease our way back to Kumarakom. After another fantastic meal, I once again climbed into the captains chair to head us back.

Great food, friendly service, beautiful house boat, wonderful Kerala meals, and goregous scenery. I am so fortunate to work with Mr. Kence and I got to see first hand why Eco Trails Kerala is the top rated tour in Kerala.

Back at Tharavadu Mr. Kence informed me that media people will come in the afternoon to take pictures and interview me for canoeing or something or other; not really clear on what, but hey when in the backwaters just go with the flow right? Apparently they are from the biggest distributed newspaper in India.

Snap, snap, snap, the camera shutter captured photos of me from every angle. “Can you put your hair down?” “Can you paddle this way?” “Please look there.” “Put your hat back on.” In the canoe, out of the canoe, near the building, through the walkway… There must have been at least 200 photos taken of me. Then the questions… I tried to direct the focus mostly to environmental volunteering and making things more “eco-friendly” in Kerala, but the inevitable questions came; “Do you like the food here?” “What made you come to India?” “What Bollywood film did you do in Mumbai?” “Are you married?” I just sure hope the story is more about foreigners coming to volunteer or environmental awareness in Kerala, and not about me as an odd westerner. We shall see…

Flicker Pictures here!

Mumbai

Friday, Jan 14 – Mumbai

Getting to Mumbai

Mumbai is a huge, busy, crazy city that can be a bit frustrating to get around. Once again I felt like a walking money sign and my defenses went back up. Traveling through India is like a rollercoaster. Peaks and dips, unexpected turns that drops your heart into your stomach, thrill and nausea, but never boring! I found a super cheap hostel (you get what you pay for) and relaxed a bit before a Bollywood agent “discovered” me to be an extra in a flim. I already heard about the loooooong experience others had but I thought when will I ever be able to do Bollywood again! Why not!?!

Saturday, Jan 15 – Bollywood

I’m Ready for My Close-Up! Bollywood Fun

Bollywood was an experience! They bused a bunch of us to a big studio where they got started making us “stars.” Crazy fancy dress costumes, total eighties style hairdos, caked on makeup, and people fussing all about you! I was decked out in a pink sequence (oooh my favorite color!) and dark blue valor gown with bubblegum necklace and covered in glitter! We shuffled to the set of a big budget film for a dance scene set on New’s Years Eve in a big white club. We celebrated the arrival of New Year maybe 20 times before getting the shot. The whole nine hours on set was waiting for 15 seconds of shot then waiting some more before another shot. I think nine hours equaled 2 minutes of film time!

I had a great time though! I think they either liked my dancing or my dress with a splash of color, because they grabbed me to be in the camera line a lot! Even for close shots with the huge Bolloywood stars (who I had no clue about). Someone remind me to look up the Bollywood film “Thank You” one of these days to see if I can spot the dancer in pink in the background!

Sunday, Jan 16 – Mumabi

Changing Plans for Friends

Heather from Colorado was headed my way so I changed my train to hang out and actually see a bit of Mumbai. We walked all over taking in the crazy city. Sassoon Dock was the best morning site with tons of brightly dressed women in sarees shelling prawns by the thousands, fishing boats unloading their hauls, and the stench of fish all around. It was disturbing to see some baby sharks cast aside dead as a by-catch from the nets. India is very hard on me as a conservationist. The pollution, trash, and treatment of animals here gnaws at me everyday.

After walking a good bit of Mumbai we spontaneously decided to go to Elephant Island to check out the cave temples. Another awesome sight with ancient carvings deep into the rock. The surrounding scenery was nicer too with tree covered hills, birds soaring, and monkey aplenty! The boat ride provided relief from the heat and gave a great view of the India Gate and Taj Hotel.

Monday, Jan 17 – Mumbai

Chowpatti Beach

More wandering around seeing British and European architecture influence then a ride up to Chowpatti Beach. Once again my heart wrenched with the destruction of the beach; the water is too toxic to swim in and there is trash all along the water. Still we made the most of it chatting in the shade over yummy Indian snacks.

The rest of day was spent strolling a local market in Colaba then an delicious meal at Delhi BowBar restaurant. It was great to have a friend to share Mumbai with but tomorrow I’m on my own again starting a 26 hour train ride to Kerala. I just hope the south is nicer to its environment!

Still doing good in India

Between constant power failures, limited internet, slow connections, and just keeping busy both with volunteering and adventure I find it so hard to keep this blog updated online! But I have been keeping (sort-of) a journal on my computer so get ready for a bombardment of updates from India-na Julie I’m afraid pictures wont load in wordpress before the power fails again so for my pictures you’ll have to check out the Flicker links!

Wednesday, Jan 12 – Udaipur

I got my hug!

Children following me in the streets full of smiles and wanting to shake my hand 3 times each! They joyously yell out “What’s your name? Where you from?” People here are much nicer. When I got lost an auto-rickshaw guy gave me a free lift towards my hostel since he was headed that ways anyhow. My skepticism me it was another scam but I pushed it aside and was pleased he told the truth. Udaipur taught me to be less guarded so I wont miss the generousity of India. I still will be wary but open to see the good first!

The greatest thing about Udaipur is I’m finally warm! Yeah!

I stayed in an excellent hostel called Mewargarh Palace Hostel while exploring this beautiful city with lakes, hills, and amazing sites. The eccentric City Palace had colored tinted mirror rooms, tile mosaics, and extravagant architecture! However, I like the incredibly carved Jagdish Temple better. Walking barefoot I listened to the drumming and chants come from within while marveling at the sculpture work on the outside. I once again ran into a bunch of Indian tourist more keen to take a picture with me than appreciate the temple. It happens whenever I go to tourist sites.

I guy inside talked me into going to a nearby School de Art to see students working on the miniature paintings known in Udaipur. So glad I did! The students were hard at work and proud to show off their craft. They were all incredibly nice and not pushy for me to buy anything (which I wish I had because those paintings were stunning and unique.) My favorite activity in Udaipur was a dance performance. Exquisitely graceful and skilled these women performed out-of-this-world dances. One dance the women’s costumes had bell symbols sewn on the shoulders, down the leg and foot, and back and the bell strikers were twirled in their hands! Other dances included balancing objects on the head like the pot of fire dance, and the 10 water pot dance! Picture an older women balacing a large pot of her head as she bends down forward to pick a handkerchief off a small flower vase with her teeth. Got the image? Now change it so that large pot has NINE more pots balanced on it. I M P R E S S I V E! Udaipur hopefully marks the beginning of good tides in India!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/32578008@N02/sets/72157625986134906/show/

Agra

Monday, Jan 10 – Agra

Taj Mahal

There is already so much written about the Taj Mahal but I will once again confirm that is it every bit as spectacular as they say. The gleaming white marble on the colossal domes is something to behold in person. Detailed colorful inlays are done with exquisite care, flowers carved into white and red marble, and the sheer size and beauty of the place is mystical.

Red Fort

The Red Fort in Agra is another not-to miss sight. Its vibrant red sandstone highlighted with white marble temples is awe-inspiring. It is very well preserved and offers a far off view of the Taj Mahal. Plus I got to see my first monkeys here! I would have love to spend more time exploring but, despite brilliant sights, this day sucked and time was not on my side.

Indian trains why do you hate me?

It was another restless night with thoughts racing through my mind. Will I find the train, when do I get off, how do I find the Taj, will I be harassed… I awoke tired and coughing then raced downstairs to find a cycle rickshaw at 530 am. Arriving at the train station it took a bit of stumbling around to find out my train was delayed by SIX HOURS. Ugh! I would never have enough time to see the Taj Mahal and Red Fort. So I once again stumbled my way into getting a ticket for a different train. Except I didn’t understand when I was told to go downstairs for reserved tickets when everyone else was getting tickets here. They reluctantly sold me a general ticket and sent me on my way.  What a deal only 60 ruppees ($1.30)! Or so I thought.

My sanity was in serious question after six hideously long hours of being freezing cold (the windows didn’t shut), squished and crowded (my single seat turned into a three seater, but at least I got a seat), and worrying endlessly if I missed my stop (no one spoke much English and it was only supposed to be a three hour trip). Always trying to see the bright side I thought about what a true Indian experience this is and how adventurous of me, while quietly swearing to never do general seating again.

India bared its soul in rushing glimpses from the train. Shambled houses, children playing in trash mounds, pigs roaming through dwellings, people shitting on the tracks, waterways polluted beyond repair, haze and filth everywhere; all engrained the devastating poverty that exists here. Such a contrast from the clean, beautiful, enormously expensive monuments I was in route to see.

After seeing the majestic sights with two lovely German girls who shared my train troubles I almost forgot about my morning ordeal. However, it was back the train station to catch the 6:00 pm train back to Delhi. Despair hit my gut when the train was delayed two hours making me think I would arrive in Delhi at 11:00 pm. Eleven would have been nice! Instead we watched as the monitors kept updating the delay time to always say it was just about to come tying us to the platform. We got approached by beggar children, gawked at by men, it was cold, but that was no big deal. The real trouble was I had to pee. Too afraid to miss the train by going all the way the buildings, I followed the thought “When in Rome..” and popped a squat behind some platform stairs. Another true Indian experience.

Throughout the day I remembered a great article about India a friend sent me once. Its about how India gives hugs and punches to make you love and hate her. Well India I got the punch to the face, how about a little hug now?

First Impressions India

It was a long plane ride next to an angry, anxty teenage who wouldn’t let me sleep. At one point she even knock me in the head while she was “sleeping.” Grrness!

Still with no sleep when I landed in India I was ready to be shocked. The Delhi airport is very nice and the crazy hordes of people never materialized. In fact, the only hard thing was the ATM wouldn’t take my card. This was no worries since wonderful McKay gave me some rupees to get by. After getting a ticket from the prepaid taxi booth I stepped outside and there it was, the India I heard about. Masses of people, blaring horns, stares, and pure traffic chaos! Me head swiveled about in the cab trying to take in this foreign new world. Three wheel auto rickshaws, haze, poverty, stray dogs, dirt, no lane driving, smell of sewers Indians everywhere, smell of fires, person pooping on the sidewalk, and horn honking. Always the horn honking. My senses were pelted incessantly as my stomach tightened with 1 part anxiety, 1 part awe, and 3 parts anticipation. I knew after India I wold never be the same….

Saturday, Jan 8 – Arrive Delhi

Take the Chance

Not quiet ready to dive completely in I headed to a friend’s place in Bhogal Market to spend a few days. She is Dutch and has been living here for a couple of years. We walked a bit around Bhogal market, it is impossible to express how different India is to anywhere I’ve been. She guided me to Humayun Tomb, spectacular temple structures made of red sandstone and marble.

Humayun tomb in Delhi

Parrots fly through the trees, young Indian couples hide away in the garden corners, and peace exists despite being in chaotic Delhi. On the way back we got some amazing Indian street food and it was back to the cold apartment. India is built for hot temperatures. Every place is made of marble that turns to bone piercing iciness in the winter.

Despite being freezing, sleep deprived, and still fighting a cold, when I’m invited to a house party in a different country I make it a point to take the chance and join in. It was great. Lots of ex-pats mixed with a wonderful Indian crowd.  I heard some astonishing stories about India.  It seems no matter how long a foreigner lives here India will still shock, horrify, thrill, and surprise you forever.

Sunday, Jan 9 – Delhi

India Gate

So maybe going to a party in the cold outside was not the best idea for someone trying to get healthy again. So I slept away the day and only made it one sight. The India gate is beautiful. A monument to Indian soldiers it stands proud among green gardens and pushy vendors selling tourist cheap knick knacks. The India Gate is wonderful but the highlight of the day was the food! I love the inexpensive India food here! Yum!

Humayun tomb in Delhi

Humayun tomb in Delhi

restoration of the tomb

Boghal Market, Delhi