Tuesday, Jan 18 – Train 26 hours
26 hours Mumbai to Cochin

Ernakulam sunset
The title says it. It was long and boring, but with nicer scenery in Kerala. It could be worse. There is a 66 hour straight train ride in India (the longest single stretch in India).
Wednesday, Jan 19 – Ernakulam
Today I’m Married
Don’t worry not for real. It is just something I say when younger guys start chatting with me when I’m walking around. I took a short stroll around Ernakulam, got some yummy street food for about 25 cents for dinner, saw a pretty sunset over the water, and chatted with a nice enough “suitor” before escaping into my hotel. I’ll be back to visit Cochin (Kochi) sometime soon. For now it is off to volunteer doing…er…. not quiet clear on that, but that’s India for ya!
Thursday, Jan 20 – Kumarakom
Finally made it to Kumarakom
I’m starting to feel like an expert with India transport. Just grabbed a rickshaw, bargained a low price, got to the bus stand, was pointed onto the right bus, one transfer later, and whal-la I’m in Kumarakom. Just looking around the scenery I can tell I will like it here a lot more than other places I’ve been. It’s so green, with less trash, and there’s BIRDS!
At Tharavadu Heritage House I walked in asking for Mr. Kence who I am to volunteer with. With a friendly reply they said “yes everything is taken care of we will show you to your room, what would you like to eat? Mr Kence will meet you in an hour” Magic! Then Mr Kence arrived with a bird book for me in hand and I knew that everything would be grand.
Friday, Jan 21 – Kumarakom
Boat ride to Appeley
Kence needed to see about a property he is thinking about doing reservations for so we took a nice boat ride in the backwaters! I got to see tons of birds and take in the vibrant green of rice fields we passed. Great introduction to Kerala.
Saturday, Jan 22 –Kumarakom

Temple arch just across the hotel I stay
Canoeing the Small Channels and Birds!
After getting to know Kence better he offered me his fiberglass canoe anytime I wanted to see birds and explore the backwaters! So first thing I jumped in and took along the other volunteer for a great morning float. Friendly villagers, happy kids, stunning river scenes, birds galore, getting exercise…. yeah Julie is in heaven! There was lots of trash in the water still but instead of complaining about it I started doing something and picked up any plastic I could grab. In the afternoon I got my first look at the luxurious houseboats that Kence runs tours with and worked with customers that had questions about the tour.
In the evening I met two fantastic New York girls and we enjoy a local performance of Katakhali dance. More about facial expressions and elaborate costumes to tell a unique story than dance moves, it was out of this world! I also talked to them about my canoe ride and offered to take them out if it was okay with Kence.
Sunday, Jan 23 – Kerala Backwaters
Life of Luxury on the Water
Kence gave the okay and I had success on my first guest canoe ride. Before we set out though I talked Kence into giving them a discount on a houseboat tour if he let me and the other volunteer go along to get the experience in order to give better customer service. Everybody went for the deal, after the canoe ride it’s off for 24 hours of luxury!
The girls loved the intimate and friendly view into the village life on the smaller water canals. People bathing, washing clothes, kids shouting with joy and running along with us, cleaning of fish for amazing Kerala fish curry, fishermen heading out in their wooded canoes; couldn’t ask for a better morning. As part of the Eco Tours Kerala part I did tell them we had to collect at least 5 pieces of trash from the river before we return. They loved that idea as well and so did I! Maybe I can start something here….
Back in plenty of time to get to the houseboat we were all excited about the tour! The houseboats of today are a far cry from the traditional wooden boats (really a massive canoe) with small thatched roofs. Driven by tourism they are now huge elaborate floating hotels with all the modern comforts. I have to admit I did enjoy the opulence after doing the budget route for so long! The food was magnificent as well.
Monday, Jan 24– Kumarakom
Becoming Famous?!?
We all woke early so not to miss sunrise, a little too early because we waited for about an hour and half for the sun to wake up. Oops! But we all enjoyed seeing stars and moon over the water as well! After a brilliant sunrise complete with morning chorus of birds, we headed to Appely to drop off the New Yorkers then preceded to ease our way back to Kumarakom. After another fantastic meal, I once again climbed into the captains chair to head us back.
Great food, friendly service, beautiful house boat, wonderful Kerala meals, and goregous scenery. I am so fortunate to work with Mr. Kence and I got to see first hand why Eco Trails Kerala is the top rated tour in Kerala.
Back at Tharavadu Mr. Kence informed me that media people will come in the afternoon to take pictures and interview me for canoeing or something or other; not really clear on what, but hey when in the backwaters just go with the flow right? Apparently they are from the biggest distributed newspaper in India.
Snap, snap, snap, the camera shutter captured photos of me from every angle. “Can you put your hair down?” “Can you paddle this way?” “Please look there.” “Put your hat back on.” In the canoe, out of the canoe, near the building, through the walkway… There must have been at least 200 photos taken of me. Then the questions… I tried to direct the focus mostly to environmental volunteering and making things more “eco-friendly” in Kerala, but the inevitable questions came; “Do you like the food here?” “What made you come to India?” “What Bollywood film did you do in Mumbai?” “Are you married?” I just sure hope the story is more about foreigners coming to volunteer or environmental awareness in Kerala, and not about me as an odd westerner. We shall see…
Flicker Pictures here!